Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
